From: jerry@creb.rad.jhu.edu Date: Fri, 11 Nov 1994 15:16:14 -0500 Easy Wine - by Jerry Miller Note: This is a good way to get started in the winemaking hobby. This recipe, used with concord grape juice, results in a wine that is very similar to Manischewitz, but you can vary the sweetness to suit your own taste. Bottled juices are pasteurized, and grapes are high enough in yeast nutrients to favor rapid production of preservative levels of alcohol, so as long as you aren't extremely careless about sanitation in the steps that follow, you should have no problem making a good batch. The white grape juice contains sulfites, which retard the fermenta- tion for 2-4 days, but once the yeast is acclimated, fermentation picks up and proceeds to completion within the stated time. Amounts are shown for {bottle | half-gallon | gallon} 1 {24-oz. | 64-oz. | 128-oz.} bottle Welch's grape juice {5/8 c. | 1 3/4 c. | 3 1/2 c.} granulated white sugar *** pinch of baker's yeast or wine yeast *** *** If using wine yeast, increase sugar to {3/4 c. | 2 1/4 c. | 4 1/2 c.}. This is because baker's yeast dies at 14% alcohol, while wine yeast survives until the alcohol content reaches 18%. With juice at room temperature, open bottle and pour about a quarter of the contents into a clean container. Using a funnel, add sugar to the bottle. Cap bottle tightly and dissolve as much of the sugar as possible by inverting and turning upright repeatedly for several minutes. (A small layer of un- dissolved sugar won't do any harm, but a very high concentration of sugar can impede, or possibly even kill the yeast.) Without overfilling the bottle, pour back some of the juice taken out. Do not fill more than about a third of the way up the tapered part of the bottle. This space is needed for the foaming that often accompanies the start of the fermentation. Sprinkle in a small amount of yeast. The amount is unimportant, as it repro- duces once activated by the sugars. (Because this is a rather "low-class" wine, there is little other than alcohol to be gained by preferring wine yeast over baker's yeast.) Place the bottle in a sink or a large pot, in case fermentation becomes vi- gorous enough to force some juice out the top. (The location chosen should be away from drafts and ideally between 65 and 75 deg. F.) Cap the bottle LOOSELY to avoid danger of explosion and flying glass from the buildup of carbon dioxide from fermentation. Invert a baggie over the neck (or use a large enough sheet of plastic wrap), and hold it in place with a rubber band. This is a relatively crude substitute for a "fermentation lock", whose pur- pose is to allow gas pressure to escape without allowing fruit flies and other insects to contaminate the must with bacterium acetii (vinegar bac- teria) or other spoilage organisms. Within hours or days, depending on conditions and other factors, you will see a rapid, steady stream of bubbles rising through the must, possible ac- companied by foaming and spraying at first. After a strong start, the fer- mentation will settle down, and the speed will gradually diminish. By the end of a month, there should be no visible sign of fermentation, and the dead yeast will have begun settling in a layer on the bottom. Let the wine stand undisturbed for at least a week or two after bubbling is no longer visible. This will allow time for the wine to clear by letting the yeast and tartaric acid settle out. Prepare enough clean, dry wine bottles to accomodate the amount of wine you have made (e.g., 5 for a gallon). Place a funnel in the first bottle, and carefully, so as not to stir up the sediment, pour from the fermentation bottle. Having an assistant helps, be- cause once the bottle is tipped, it is best to keep it in that position until pouring into the next bottle. (Otherwise, turning it upright disturbs the sediment unnecessarily.) When filling the last bottle, watch for sediment beginning to enter the neck, and stop pouring at this point. The remaining wine may be left to settle again, at which time you can pour yourself a sample to taste. (The sediment is not harmful - in fact, it's similar to "brewer's yeast" - but it makes the wine less appealing for serving to guests.) Cap or cork the bottled wines and age for as many months or years as your patience allows. Yes, even a "low-class" wine such as this improves very noticeable with age! For those interested, the empirical equation for the fermentation of sucrose, from which I initially derived the approximate stoichiometry for the amounts of sugar to use, is as follows: ^ C H O + 4 H O -> 3 C H OH + 6 CO | 12 22 11 2 2 5 2 (sucrose)+(water)->(ethanol)+(carbon dioxide gas) Whether or not you understand the concept of stoichiometry, you should be able to extend the experience gained from using this recipe toward development of your own variations. All you need is to know a few rules: 1. The sweeter the juice, the less sugar you need to add. You can always add more later, if necessary, but you can't take it out if you've used too much. (If you do add sugar, be sure to give it time to ferment before bottling, just in case.) 2. Chopped raisins can be added to musts that don't supply yeast nutrient, such as apple juice. This is also necessary when making grain or root wines (another subject altogether). 3. Juices in cartons (such as fresh or reconstituted orange juice) are NOT pasteurized, which is why they must be refrigerated. Trying to use them will usually result in an off-tasting wine, if it is wine at all - it may even be poisonous! 4. Wine hobby supply stores carry canned concentrates of exotic grapes and various berries. These work well also, but be sure the water you use for reconstituting is uncontaminated, good- tasting, and not overly chlorinated. Good luck and happy tasting!